A shopping parade runs ahead – nip beside the bakery, through Choppin’s Court and across a small green. Welsh House, one of twelve 1920s LCC blocks – all named after sea captains – has a flourishing courtyard garden. The ‘Welsh’ refers to James Welsh, who in 1591 wrote: “God be praised, we ankered at Limehouse in the Thames, where we discharged 587 sacks of peper, 150 elephants’ teeth, and 82 barrels of oil of palm trees.” Beyond the green, walk along Prusom Street and then Penang Street to the building Walk of the Mon with white projecting balconies, part of the former St George’s in the East workhouse (2). Needy parishioners received shelter and basic rations here, though it was often the place of last resort. Veer right into Wapping Wood – a splash of greenery created in the foot-print of the London Docks. Now in-filled, the docks extended over 30 acres, westward to Hermitage Basin, and specialised in high-value cargoes such as ivory, spices, coffee and cocoa. Out on Wapping Lane there’s a glimpse of Tobacco Dock (3), a bonded store not only Start: Wapping Tube Station Finish: Wapping Tube Station Distance: 2 miles Allow: 75 minutes for tobacco, but also wine, spirits, furs and skins. Converted into a shopping complex in the late 1980s, it was hit by the recession and failed to take off. Today it stands empty, guarded by boars’ heads, barrels and pirate ships. To your left an 18-storey block steps back with graceful curves on its upper levels; 21 Wapping Lane (4) is a recently completed 385- flat development by Ballymore. Detour into On this month’s walk, Graham Barker explores the wharves and warehouses of old Wapping. Photos by Kois Miah. All at sea (Left) Hermitage Gardens is home to a memorial to civilian casualties of the Blitz (Below) St Patrick’s Church was built to serve Irish dockers, who made up a third of Wapping’s population WAPPING still retains a village atmosphere; independent shops and cafés serve the local community, churches and pubs are dotted about, and Wapping’s maritime heritage is never far away, with old tea and spice warehouses framing the cobbled streets. Wapping station (1)has a remarkable place in history as one end of the world’s first underwater tunnels. Father and son engineers Marc and Isambard Kingdom Brunel overcame five major floods, as well as financial setbacks, to complete it in 1843. The planned spiral carriage ramps were never built, but it served as a pedestrian tunnel and visitor attraction, before being converted for the East London Railway. From the station, follow Wapping High Street and walk alongside Prusom’s Island, a warehouse conversion; its curious name echoes back to medieval times, when Wapping was a marsh and gravel patchwork, interspersed with islands. Cinnamon Street – another evocative name – brings you back to the Cinnamon Café, popular with Wapping locals. 18 NEWS FROM TOWER HAMLETS COUNCIL AND YOUR COMMUNITY 18 – 24 AUGUST 2014
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